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JAISALMER FORT
Jaisalmer fort is the second oldest in Rajasthan after
Chittor and commands the desertscape from its 250 feet high
perch on the hill. Three strong walls protect the citadel.
The first buttress wall was constructed by the local Jain
panchayat in the 15th century. Subsequent additions and
fortifications were built by the Rawals. The steep
cobblestone pathway leading to the royal palace passes
through four gates-Akhai Pole (Ganesh Pole), Suraj Pole,
Bhuta Pole and Hawa Pole. Sharp turns on the road topped by
high defense gateways made it invincible. At the highest
point of the place can be seen an umbrella-Meghadamber
symbolic of Krishna.
Palaces Inside the Jaisalmer Fort
The fort has five palaces called Sarvottam Vilas, Akhai
Vilas, Gaj Mahal, Rang Mahal and Moti Mahal-all
interconnected behind the seven-storied façade. Small stairs
take you from one court to another with superb jail screens
shading interiors from the fierce heat and desert wind. The
Rang Mahal built by Mool Raj II has some exquisite murals
painted on arches and spandrels. Music and dances soirees
were held here for royal ladies. From the balconies you get
a terrific view of the mammoth ramparts below guarding the
small city. Balconies at the Gaj Mahal are also breathtaking
beautiful, if only the English Romantic poet John Keats had
seen them. The fort contains one third of the city's
population within the small houses on the narrow lanes. Many
houses provide budget accommodation to visitors and house
curio shops.
Jain Temples
Within the fort are the three most exquisitely sculptured
Jain temples dedicated to Rishabhdevji, Sambhavanathji and
the Ashthapadi temple. Their ornamentation done in the style
of the Dilwara temples at Mt. Abu is simply marvelous. The
emerald icon of Mahavira is an unparalleled gem.
HAVELIS OF JAISALMER
Salem Singh Haveli
It is at an unhurried pace that the havelis (houses of rich
merchants) should be seen and admired. These havelis are the
pride of Jaisalmer architecture, a part of the national
heritage. Salem Singh haveli, at the eastern end of the
city, is an Arabian Nights structure, which, like a wild
flower, blossoms at the top.
Patwon ki Haveli
Near the city center is the Patwon ki Haveli, built by Guman
Chand Patwa and his five sons, dealers in brocade, gold and
silver embroidery with business stretching between
Afghanistan and China. The five suites built between 1800
and 1860 are virtually the showpiece of Jaisalmer's
legendary architectural wealth. The carving on stone far
surpasses in beauty the work on brocade and gold. The
balconies are so delicately chiseled you would stand
mesmerized by the splendor of it all, particularly when
viewed early in the morning or in late afternoon. Oblique
sunrays create enchanting and dramatic shadows, highlighting
the carving and infusing a new life of its own. It is the
grandest mansion in Jaisalmer, a veritable museum piece in
the open.
Nathmal Haveli
The third haveli belongs to Nathmal, a later day prime
minister who gifted it to the Rawal and was allowed to
retain it. Built by two brothers in 1885, this haveli has
two identical looking portions, which are in fact two
different parts united by a common façade. Look for the
projected balconies wh9ch seem to emerge from books of
poetry. So ethereal, so charming. The carving never looked
better. A perfect example of jeweler's art applied to stone
carving. The Muslim silavats (artisans) did a wonderful job
here and left a marvelous legacy of craftsmanship excellent
in detail and flawless in conception. If only for viewing
these havelis travel to Jaisalmer is more than amply
rewarded.
JAISALMER - TRAVEL
Sand Dunes
The most picturesque dunes are located some 40 km from
Jaisalmer. No travel to Jaisalmer is complete without a
visit to these fascinating dunes. Wind-caressed slopes are
marked with ripples creating an enchanting mirage, a visual
illusion of extraordinary splendor. The dunes can be
extremely treacherous since they can sink to a few feet the
moment you step over one. Occasionally you can see the dunes
shifting with the strong desert winds-an astonishing feat of
nature. Watching sunrise and sunset on the dunes can become
etched on your memory-such an unforgettable spectacle with
the great ball of light rising from behind the low hills of
sand amid a perfectly still scene. A mysterious silence
prevails.
Lodurva
Lodurva, the ancient capital of Bhattis is 16 kilometers
from Jaisalmer. Mostly in ruins, it is visited for the great
Jain temple, which contains the most exquisite jail work
screens, grand ceiling and a magnificent triumphal arch at
the entrance. The original carriage for the deity, made in
1675, is still preserved. The most interesting object dart
is Kalpataru, a mythical tree of wish fulfillment. Lodurva
has a great number of peacocks, which hover around the
temple walls lending spectacular color to the dry and stony
landscape. Here once flowed the river Kak. Along its banks
had flourished the romance between princess Momal, and
prince Mathendru of Amarkot. Their tragic end is the theme
of folk songs. When the lovers perished, the river Kak
stopped flowing.
Amar Sagar
From Lodurva, the road to Jaisalmer passes through Amar
Sagar, which has a grand artificial reservoir for water, a
temple and a promenade on the bank. Bada Bagh, cenotaphs of
the Jaishalmer Rawals, has some magnificent chattris
(canopies) set amidst an oasis of greenery. The elegant
chattris are in white marble and mostly in the fabulous
yellow sandstone. A great place for a stopover and
photography. Another beautiful place is the Gadi Sagar Tank,
the main source of the city's water supply. Early morning on
the tank is charming with the temples resounding with
chanting of mantras and prayers. The main gateway was built
by a courtesan, Telon, who installed a Krishna image atop
the arched gateway to ward off royal ire at having had to
pass under a construction financed by her.
Kuldhara Village
One of the most interesting places is Kuldhara village. This
is among the 84 villages inhabited by the rich, hard-working
Paliwals. The Paliwals deserted their houses overnight with
the curse that anyone who removed even a stone from the
houses would come to grief and perish. Howling winds rush
through empty streets and skeletons of houses now exposed to
the elements remains of the village. |
